Destination: The Newest Riviera
08 Feb 2010
by: Mke Stevens
| It's in Mexico, sure, but on the Pacific coast. Here's the lowdown on the laidback but luxe Riviera Nayarit
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BY MIKE STEVENS | PHOTOGRAPHY BY SHELLY STRAZIS
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Heading to a spa treatment at the St. Regis in Punta Mita; hillside houses on Sayulita Bay; ceviche and cerveza.
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Three years ago there was no Riviera Nayarit—just a blissful 190-mile
stretch of coastline north of Puerto Vallarta. But times and marketing plans
change. The region's Riviera-fication comes after a decade of steady
development, particularly in the south, that has transformed the coastline of
the Mexican state of Nayarit into a major vacation destination. These days this
upstart Riviera can out-pamper Vallarta, its better-known neighbor. But it's
not just posh spas and mammoth all-inclusive resorts. A half-hour drive north
takes you to ceviche stands and beachfront surf shacks. A half-hour farther and
only dirt roads lead to pristine beaches...for now. Here's a primer on Mexico's
newest Riviera.
NUEVO VALLARTA
During the drive from Puerto Vallarta's airport, only the eagle-eyed will
notice they're crossing the state line from Jalisco to Nayarit (pronounced
"n-eye-ah-REET"). Indeed, many visitors to Nuevo Vallarta, at the
southernmost end of the Riviera Nayarit, might remain blissfully unaware their
entire vacation. And that's sort of the point of the massive (400-plus rooms)
all-inclusive resorts found here. These self-contained retreats coddle frazzled
guests with welcoming fruit drinks, decadent spa treatments, dance clubs and
acres of pool (literally, at a few of the resorts). But the big draw is the
wide beach, one of the best on Banderas Bay.
For those so inclined, Nuevo Vallarta is an ideal base for day trips to explore
the Riviera Nayarit, whose best attractions are still in the first 50 miles or
so. Expect to pay 240 pesos (around $22) for a cab ride to the towns of Punta
de Mita or Sayulita. You'll pay even less for a ride to Playa Destiladeras, a
beach favored by locals a few miles past the new multimillion-dollar marina at
La Cruz de Huanacaxtle. If you want to stay closer, you can stroll north on the
sand to take in town life at Bucervías. Fans of Mexican folk art should drop in
at Jan Marie's Boutique (56 Lázaro Cárdenas).
PUNTA DE MITA
Moving north, Banderas Bay curls to a close at the exclusive Punta Mita
development, on a gated peninsula that's home to a Four Seasons and a new St.
Regis. A Ritz Carlton is in the works. If all goes as planned, Punta Mita will
have the highest concentration of high-end hotels in Mexico by 2011. Those not
ready to drop $475 a night can sneak a peek behind the gates by booking a
treatment at the St. Regis's sultan-ready Remède Spa. The Puebla Hot Stone
Treatment ($260) comes highly recommended. Still too pricey? Book a table at
Las Marietas, the resort's casual lunch spot. You can savor the immaculate
grounds while sipping cerveza (beer) and eating sea-fresh ceviche under
a palapa.
In nearby Punta de Mita town, take a dip at Playa el Anclote, a lovely wading
beach whose shallow water is calmed by rock jetties. (Surfers needn't worry;
other sections have rideable waves.) The area was once the haunt of serape
sellers and the like, but it's gone upscale along with its gated twin next
door. That's evident at the beachside Café des Artistes del Mar, one of the
best restaurants on Mexico's Pacific coast. Chef Thierry Blouet helped put
Puerto Vallarta on the culinary map before turning his attention to the Riviera
Nayarit in 2007. His innovative, French-influenced menu quickly earned
accolades. Try the densely flavored tomato and onion confit tarte and the
roasted sea bass topped with waves of sliced potatoes.
SAYULITA & SAN PANCHO
Long waves first began drawing surfers to Sayulita, 25 miles north of Puerto
Vallarta, in the 1970s. Some early champions bemoan the proliferation of
California and Oregon license plates, but most of today's visitors find that
this funky surf town offers comfort (smoothies and Wi-Fi) without sacrificing
its small-town Mexico charm. Development here runs on a more intimate scale
than at Punta Mita. The biggest hotel, Villa Amor, has only 34 rooms, and colorful
surf shacks line the beach. Longboarders and beginners should stick to the
break on the right. Those seeking bigger waves might ask for directions to
Playa Carricitos, a half-hour hike to the south. Pangas, the small open
boats seen all over Mexico, shove off from Sayulita's beach on surfing trips to
reef breaks and remote beaches (from $45). Be forewarned: The long ride can be
rough. On your way back from the beach, pick up an espresso at Panino's Bakery
on Calle Delfines, or try the town plaza's taco stands for a more substantial
snack.
Sayulita has become something of a shopping destination as well. At the top of
the boutique heap is Pachamama (6 Calle Delfines), run by a pair of stylish
French wanderers who favor racy designs, quality pottery and subtle jewelry.
Joyeria Sol (7 Calle Delfines) sells locally made jewelry that will get you
noticed—in a good way—back home. La Hamaca Gallery (110 Av. Revolución), a
Mexican folk art clearinghouse, carries everything from brightly painted
ceramic figures to colorful throw pillows with bold patterns. Folk art
collectors will want to check out the intricate Huichol beadwork at the
nonprofit Galeria Tanana (8 Av. del Palmar). The gallery's sales help support a
Huichol community center in the nearby Sierra Madre Mountains.
Up the road roughly 15 minutes is the small town of San Francisco, generally
called San Pancho. For those searching for the Sayulita of lore, here's where
to find it. That means fewer Americans, a handful of low-rise hotels and a
wide-open beach where you can lunch under palapas. Anyone looking for the next
San Pancho should head another five miles north to Lo de Marcos. The next Lo de
Marcos? Rincón de Guayabitos. And so on northward up this new Riviera's
luxuriously long coast.
EAT
LA LAGUNA TINO'S
This fun local favorite makes
a killer Pescado Zarandeado,
slow-grilled red snapper
rubbed in spices. Km 1.2 off
second entrance to Nuevo
Vallarta; 011-52-322-297-0221;
lunch for two, $40*
LAS MARIETAS
Ceviche and mole-stuffed
chicken are the specialties
here. Reservations required
for non-guests. St. Regis,
Punta Mita;
011-52-329-291-5864;
lunch for two, $60
CAFÉ DES ARTISTES
DEL MAR
This 74-seat, sea-to-table
restaurant delivers some
of the best food to be found
on Mexico's Pacific coast.
Period. Punta de Mita;
011-52-329-291-5415;
dinner for two, $110
ROLLIE'S
A friendly, eclectic joint that's
a favorite breakfast spot, in
part thanks to the smoothies.
58 Av. Revolución, Sayulita;
011-52-329-291-3075;
breakfast for two, $24
RESTAURANTE EL DELFIN
This inspired culinary outpost
in San Blas (two hours north
of Nuevo Vallarta) is worth
the drive. Cordon Bleu–trained
Betty Vázquez González's
standouts include a
wonderfully light shrimp tartar
with capers and coriander, and
silky seafood soup given depth
by smoky chiles. 106 S. Paredes,
San Blas; 011-52-323-285-0112;
dinner for two, $85
*Prices are in U.S. dollars, and cover a
meal for two without drinks, tax or tip.
STAY
RCI-AFFILIATED RESORTS
ON THE RIVIERA NAYARIT
INCLUDE:
MAYAN PALACE NUEVO
VALLARTA, Nuevo Vallarta
GRAND VELAS INTERNATIONAL
RESIDENCE,* Nuevo Vallarta
MARIVAL VACATION
CLUB,* Nuevo Vallarta
THE GRAND MAYAN NUEVO
VALLARTA, Nuevo Vallarta
*All-inclusive resort.
For more information,
visit RCI.com or call
Weeks: 800-338-7777
Points: 877-968-7476
NON-RCI-AFFILIATED
RESORTS:
VILLA LA ESTANCIA
This new 245-room all-suites
hotel is one of Nuevo's finest.
Nuevo Vallarta; 877-845-5247;
villalaestancia.com; doubles
from $213
HOTEL DES ARTISTES
A tastefully posh 12-room hotel.
Punta de Mita; 866-628-2693;
hoteldesartistesdelmar.com;
doubles from $390
ST. REGIS PUNTA MITA
Punta Mita's newest sits on
22 acres; butlers service the
120 rooms. Punta Mita;
877-787-3447;
starwoodhotels.com;
doubles from $329
HARAMARA RETREAT
This secluded 16-bungalow
resort offers yoga workshops.
Sayulita; 888-494-3688;
haramararetreat.com;
doubles from $252 (meals included)
PETIT HOTEL D'HAFA
A six-room hotel with
Moroccan flair. Sayulita;
011-52-329-291-3806;
doubles from $85
HOTEL CIELO ROJO
An eight-room hotel with a
bohemian spirit. San Pancho;
011-52-311-258-4155;
hotelcielorojo.com; doubles
from $95
NOTE: Information may have changed since publication. Please confirm key details before
planning your trip.
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